As of now, mid-November, the harvest of Arabica coffee is
happening everywhere coffee is grown in Oku. Since Oku is not uniform
geographically or climatically, there are villages down in the valleys where
the berries get ripe earlier (Mbam or Ngham, for example) and up high in the
hills where red berries only show up a few weeks later (Emlah or Jiyane, say). Coffee
is on just about everyone’s mind, either because they have their own coffee to
harvest and process or they want to try to buy some coffee now while the price
is low and make a little profit in a few weeks when the price inflates a bit.
I’ve spent a few mornings with people plucking a few baskets
of cherries. As with most things, I’m slow. Not as slow as when I was picking
the specialty beans at the mill back in May, but pretty slow. But it’s nice to
have someone else in the field with you when you’re doing work like this, so
I’m sure no one minds. At least I’m good at not dropping the berries, which
would probably annoy people.
This may all be cryptic to anyone who hasn’t been close to
coffee trees, so let’s back up. Arabica coffee is harvested a few times over
the course of a season, because the cherries do not ripen all at the same time.
Harvesters select only the ripened berries (or pretty close to ripened berries)
and leave the green berries on the stem to continue maturing. This is a little
tricky because coffee berries grow in clusters and are attached to the tree by
a little forked stem (the peduncle) so when you try to pluck a single ripe berry it
is easy to detach at least one or two unripe ones you didn’t mean to. Then they
drop on the ground and its a pain to bend over to retrieve them and sometimes a
pain to find them in the grass. This is why farmers here see clearing the weeds
from the field as a necessary prerequisite to starting the harvest season.
I know that in other parts of the world, harvesters will go
out to the field with matts or skirts to place under the trees during harvest
to catch these wayward fruits, but here (I’ll say this with nothing to back me
up) each tree yields so little and you move through the field so quickly that
the time needed to lay down a skirt and constantly move it wouldn’t be
reasonable. On the other hand, if you read up on Coffee Berry Disease (the
scourge of the crop here) removing diseased berries from the field is recommended
pretty much unanimously and using a skirt during harvesting can make that a lot
easier.
When you do get the berries you want in your hand, you drop
them in your basket or sac and move on to the next ones. If you ask someone
around here how much coffee they harvested today, they’ll answer you with some
number of ‘tins’, by which they mean 20-liter buckets. Later these same tins
become the basic unit of measure for how much parchment coffee a person has to
sell. When we are talking about well dried parchment, a tin can be estimated as
about 9kgs and about seven tins will fill one sac. Meanwhile, two tins of
berries eventually become about one tin of dry parchment (after you remove the
cherry and dry the bean).
Wow. Never really thought about how much effort goes into my morning cup of coffee. I’m going to start being a whole lot more appreciative.
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