As I had said before, here in Oku and Mbessa the landscape
tends to lend itself to being washed away by the rain. Couple that with the
torrential downpours and long soaking rains we’ll be getting over the next few
months and erosion is a pretty huge problem for farmers of all kinds. Unfortunately,
awareness of erosion is low. In fact, I’ve been told that until fairly recently
when people would prepare their fields for maize and bean cultivation they
would prepare the beds and furrows with the slope (up to down) which is about
90 degrees away from where they should be; against the slope (left to right).
This is kind of slope cultivation 101, and I’m happy that it is no longer the
norm though you can still see the remnants of the process when you look at the
piles of rock people have picked from their fields which are oriented with the
slope.
Now, maize/bean fields are cultivated to reduce erosion.
What about coffee? Well coffee fields don’t really need cultivation,
particularly if you’re not trying to incorporate fertilizers. There are some
benefits to cultivation that I can’t (and don’t try) to deny: weed control,
some benefits to root growth, release of nutrients from organic matter that is
being exposed to oxygen. On the other hand, I’m trying my best to introduce
practices, or mentalities, which can help to replace or make obsolete these
benefits. For example, instead of worrying about weeds, let’s embrace cover
crops or instead of loosening the soil manually to encourage root growth, let’s
let the roots of our cover crops, earthworms, and other soil flora and fauna do
that work for us. So our primary recommendations to combat erosion are to plant
cover crops, never reduce your ground cover so far that you expose the soil,
and, most proactively, plant some contour bunds with a grass.
In April I was hoping to do the contour bund part on a whole
slew of farms. That didn’t happen, largely because I ended up spending more
time than I expected at the mill in Bali, but I did get the chance to implement
this plan with two farmers, and I’m still hoping to do it with a few more in
May. It is kind of a fun process that can be done in a much shorter time than I
expected. Here’s what you do:
Step 1: Build an A-frame level. Simple little device you can
make almost for free with
materials available on any farm (the only things
you’ll need to have ready is a bit of string and a small plastic bag). The
A-frame level allows you to measure a level line on any kind of terrain;
accuracy is high which is really important for a bund.
Step 2: Calibrate your level using two points at slightly
different heights. Put the legs at these points and mark where the string
falls, then switch the legs and mark where the string falls. In between these
marks is the level mark.
Step 3: Mark out some contour lines. Just walk across the
field one level length at a time and put a stake (or slip of grass if you’ve
got them ready) at every step. Separate your contour lines by as much distance
as you like (smaller for steeper slopes, larger for gentler ones).
Step 4: Plant your bund. If you were marking with slips of
grass you’re already about ¼ of the way there. Good choices for grass would be
vetiver grass or the grass they call fever grass around here, which I think is
the same as lemon grass. In either case, you want a clumping grass that grows
moderately quickly, doesn’t spread by stolons or any kind of creeping
structure, and doesn’t seed readily. Basically, you want it to stay where you
put it.
Step 5: Let the grass grow. Cut it 2-3 times a year using
the residue as a mulch.
Good work on making a grass bund, buddy.
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